Care Sheet

Bearded Dragon   aka “Pogona vitticeps”

The information below is based on information collected for the Inland/Central Bearded Dragon.

A downloadable/printable version including everything you will need for your new pet can be found here.

 Introduction

  • A bearded dragon is a medium sized terrestrial lizard that is regarded as a popular and easy care reptile.
  • Available in seven species, although the two most popular and commonly kept pets are the Inland “Pogona Vitticeps” and Coastal “Pogona Barbata” varieties.
  • A diurnal species, bearded dragons are most active during the day. They are ectothermic and rely on external heat sources to stay warm.
  • Being semi arboreal, they can be found inhabiting and frequenting trees and above ground basking areas. When it is extremely hot they may burrow underground.
  • Native to the Australian desert region, but can be found in dry forests and scrublands.
  • The Coastal varieties, as per their namesake can be found in the rocky coastal areas Australia.

Size and Lifespan

  • As with most reptiles, the adult male bearded dragon is larger than their female counterpart.
  • Adult Inland Bearded dragons average 40-50cm, while their Coastal cousins can grow up to 60cm.
  • Most bearded dragons will reach their adult length within 18 months from hatching, provided they are healthy and fed appropriately. Over the following year they will continue to gain weight until they reach their maximum size.
  • Bearded Dragons live up to 10 years old.

ENVIRONMENT

Enrichment

In order to keep your bearded dragon entertained there are several things you can do to enrich their environment;

  • Having them in a place in your house with people around for them to watch
  • Feeding of live prey
  • Addition or rotation of ornaments and décor to provide a new and stimulating environment, although their hiding area should be left the same to provide a memorable ‘home’
  • Allowing outside on a harness or in a safe area for supervised exploring
  • Providing an outdoor enclosure- this is a great idea and allows your bearded dragon to receive natural sunlight as well as a stimulating environment

Housing and Substrate

  • The recommended enclosure for one bearded dragon is 3 ft. (90cm) minimum.
  • The ideal terrarium has ample ventilation. Length and width are more important than height although they do appreciate multi level terrariums.
  • Reptile sand is not recommended for young bearded dragons due to the risk of becoming impacted if they ingest it. Some adult bearded dragons may enjoy digging in a ‘sand and dirt pit’
  • News paper or paper towel is an appropriate substrate for your bearded dragon.
  • Pieces of wood, rocks, branches and caves can be placed around the terrarium. Take care these are stable and not at a risk to fall and injure your reptile.

Heating and Lighting

  • A UVB light tube is necessary for owning a bearded dragon, UVB bulbs help prevent Metabolic Bone Disease as they assist in the processing of natural Vitamin D3.
  • UVB radiation is overall beneficial for their health. Lights should be on no longer than 12 hours per day and at a maximum of 30cm away from the basking area.
  • A ceramic heater and protective gear should be placed at one end of the terrarium, with a basking object beneath (e.g. Driftwood or smooth rocks)
  • Care should be taken when choosing a heating product to select the appropriate wattage for the terrarium size, and take into account using heat ‘lights’ as these will need to be turned off at night to prevent light disruption. Heat Pads are not recommended for Bearded Dragons as they do not naturally lie on rocks to absorb heat through their bellies, instead they bask in the sun’s direct rays. Use of a heat pad must be monitored so the Bearded Dragon does not burn their belly.
  • Having a warm and cool end of the terrarium is essential, as the bearded dragon will move between the two areas to regulate their temperatures.
  • Temperature should be maintained between 27-30C in the warm zone of the tank, 20-25C in the cool zone of the tank, and around 35C for the basking point (measured from the position of the basking object to get an accurate representation of the heat present during basking) Overnight temperatures should not drop below 15C.
  • Coastal bearded dragons do prefer slightly cooler temperatures than the Central varieties.
  • Thermometers must be in each end of the enclosure, and a thermostat is recommended to regulate any heat source.

Water and Misting

  • A shallow water bowl should be provided at all times and replenished daily.
  • If regularly feeding crickets or locusts a river stone can be placed in the middle to prevent insects drowning.
  • With juvenile bearded dragons placing several flat stones in the water is also ideal as young bearded dragons can drown very easily.
  • Water height should not be any deeper than a reptile’s chest – they should be able to stand easily and climb/in and out successfully.
  • Some bearded dragons like to stand in their water to drink, the disturbance of water they stand in encourages them to drink, so a large water bowl may be suitable for older bearded dragons.
  • Occasionally your bearded dragon might like to swim in this bowl, while not natural swimmers the water does help to loosen dead skin.
  • Bearded Dragons may be misted several times per week with pure water from a spray bottle, as the droplets condense on their head they may start licking and getting their moisture intake in this way. (Handy tip for dragons you may not be sure are drinking water)

Cleaning

  • The enclosure should be checked daily for any mess, uneaten food or faeces with a full clean each week.
  • Use a reptile safe disinfectant to wash bowls, rocks, hides, floor and walls.
  • If AstroTurf is used it may be rinsed clean, however this must be left to dry fully in the sun before being put back into the enclosure.
  • Due to the risk of Salmonella infection from reptiles, it is recommended to always wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water after feeding or handling your bearded dragon or their equipment, and care must be taken when young children are handling the reptiles.

Bearded Dragon Checklist

  • Minimum 3 foot terrarium with mesh lid
  • Light Bulb with UVB (minimum 5%)
  • Thermometer
  • Thermostat for regulating temperature
  • Water Dish
  • Food dish
  • Calcium with D3
  • Vitamin Powder/Liquid
  • Live Insects and any enclosures needed for housing insects
  • Feeding tongs
  • Ceramic Heat lamp and protective enclosure
  • Floor substrate
  • Spray bottle for misting
  • Other rocks, branches and décor safely fitted

NUTRITION

Feeding

  • A Bearded Dragon is an omnivore; in the wild they eat a multitude of insects, flowers and vegetation.
  • Captive Bearded Dragons can be trained to accept pelleted food forms as well as dried insects, although variety is important to having a happy and healthy bearded dragon.
  • Juvenile bearded dragons will be eating 80% live food/insects, and 20% vegetables to benefit their growing bodies. They should be offered food daily, live insects, dry insects and fresh vegetables (finely grated).
  • Adult bearded dragons will eat insects less regularly, but fresh vegetables should be offered daily and insects every 2-3 days.

Insects

  • Live insects provide great enrichment and mental stimulation. Many species including locusts and mealworms are easy to set up and breed. Most insect varieties are found in dried form although both types should be offered.
  • While crickets are highly recommended overseas, New Zealand Black Crickets are notoriously carnivorous and are known to eat each other, which can be difficult when attempting to set up a breeding colony. They can nibble on your reptile if left unattended so care must always be taken when feeding these insects.
  • Any insects fed to your bearded dragon should be ‘gut-fed’ prior to being offered. Gut feed your insects by offering them nutritious and high vitamin foods and vegetables, which will in turn prove beneficial for your lizard.
  • Live insects should be dusted with a reptile Calcium with Vitamin D3 additive powder several times per week prior to feeding; an overall Vitamin Powder can also be used occasionally.
  • To prevent choking or impaction from insects that are too large for them, only feed insects that are no bigger than the width of your bearded dragon’s head.

 

Suitable insects include;

  • Locusts
  • Mealworms and Meal Beetles
  • Superworms
  • Silkworms – high in fat so best as an occasional treat
  • Waxworms – high in fat so best as an occasional treat
  • Slaters
  • Grasshoppers

 

Vegetables

It is important to balance calcium and phosphorus levels in a bearded dragon’s diet, as too much phosphorus can block the conversion of calcium which is needed for strong bones.

The vegetables, herbs and fruits below have been sorted according to the benefits they provide for bearded dragons.

A variety of vegetables should be offered from a young age to encourage the bearded dragon to try new types. As with all pets, individual bearded dragons will have their own taste preferences.

Small, finely grated portions should be offered to juveniles, and may be mixed in with live bugs to encourage hunting and recognizing the vegetables as a food source.

Bearded Dragon Vegetable Chart

 - All varieties are fresh and de-seeded unless otherwise specified -

STAPLE

(suitable for daily feeding)

  • Alfalfa plant
  • Collard greens
  • Dandelion greens
  • Mustard greens
  • Squash

 

OCCASIONAL

(suitable for weekly feeding)

  • Alfalfa sprouts
  • Apple
  • Apricot
  • Asparagus
  • Basil
  • Beans
  • Bell peppers
  • Blackberries
  • Blueberries
  • Bok Choy
  • Cabbage
  • Celery
  • Cherries
  • Cranberries
  • Cucumber (peeled)
  • Figs
  • Grapes
  • Kale
  • Kumara
  • Leeks
  • Mango
  • Nectarine
  • Orange
  • Parsnip
  • Plum
  • Pineapple
  • Peppermint leaves
  • Peas (snap)
  • Pear
  • Prunes
  • Pumpkin
  • Radish
  • Rosemary
  • Spearmint leaves
  • Turnip
  • Watercress
  • Watermelon
  • Zucchini
  • Clover
  • Frozen mixed vegetables

RARELY

(suitable for occasional feeding/treats)

  • Banana
  • Soybeans
  • Beet greens
  • Broccoli
  • Cauliflower
  • Corn
  • Kiwifruit
  • Swiss Chard
  • Pomegranate
  • Raspberries
  • Brussels Sprouts
  • Starfruit
  • Tomato
  • Lettuce (Red leaf and Romaine)

NEVER

  • Avocado,
  • Bran
  • Chives
  • Eggplant
  • Garlic
  • Spinach
  • Mushrooms
  • Onions
  • Lettuce (Iceberg and Loose-leaf)

BEHAVIOUR

Companionship

  • It can be very difficult to introduce bearded dragons as they are dominant by nature. Severe and fatal injuries can occur from fighting bearded dragons.
  • We recommended caution and intense supervision in all cases of mixing bearded dragons and encourage that they are of a similar size when mixed.
  • Two females are less likely to injure one another as males may become territorial.

Brumation

  • This is a form of hibernation that wild bearded dragons go into at the change of season into the cooler months, or when food supplies would run out.
  • In a captive environment not all bearded dragons will bromate, however with correct temperature and lighting then your bearded dragon may instinctively bromate.
  • They may refuse to eat for long periods and be less active.
  • Brumating beardies may attempt to burrow under things or bury themselves in soil to keep warm.
  • Brumation slows their metabolism to almost a standstill so they will eat and drink nothing for long periods of time while maintaining their overall health.
  • The brumation period is also an instinctual behaviour to allow their bodies to rest before the mating season in spring.

Dominance and Physical Behaviours

Arm Waving

  • Standing on 3 legs and raising the remaining leg in the air while waving it in a circular motion.
  • This can be a method of species recognition and may occur when one bearded dragon is meeting another.
  • It can also demonstrate submission as a bearded dragon is approached by a larger or stronger threat.

Head Bobbing

  • This display is more common in mature males where they will repeatedly bob their head up and down. This is usually a sign of dominance and aggression.

Gaping Mouth

  • Open mouth basking is common to help regulate temperature. As bearded dragons cannot sweat this is a normal behaviour to help cool down.

Digging

  • The bearded dragon may be trying to create a basking or brumation area, or mature females may try to be finding a place to lay her eggs.

Lying on top of another bearded dragon

  • This may look cute! But usually it is a show of dominance, the strongest bearded dragon will get the most UV rays to maintain healthy.

Beard Puffing

  • Bearded dragons may puff out their beard and darken it to black, this is a form of aggression display used to intimidate and warn other threats.
  • A stressed or agitated bearded dragon may do this to make himself look larger.
  • Although more common in males, the females can also behave in this way.

Tail Twitching

  • Similar to a cat’s twitchy tail, some bearded dragons will do this when stressed or when hunting although it is not a common behaviour.

HEALTH

Signs of a Healthy Bearded Dragon

  • Bright eyes
  • Feeding Well
  • Active
  • Eyes, nose and mouth are free from oozing
  • Body should be free from sores, deformities, abrasions or parasites

Signs of an unhealthy Bearded Dragon

  • Constriction of toes or limbs due to shedding
  • Diarrhoea
  • Abrasions or burns from heat sources
  • Hunched posture
  • Wounds and injuries
  • Changes in behaviour
  • Swollen belly
  • Lack of faecal motions (extremely dangerous)
  • Lack of appetite
  • Dull eyes
  • Oozing around the eyes, nose and mouth
  • Gasping or difficulties with breathing

Metabolic Bone Disease

  • This is where there is an improper balance of calcium and phosphorus in the bones.
  • If there is not enough calcium available, the body will compensate by lowering the calcium density in the reptile’s bones. This makes the bones soft, prone to fractures and can cause deformities and bowing of the legs and spine.
  • MBD will make the reptile feel ill and unwilling to eat, can cause constipation, partial paralysis and muscle tremors.
  • Vitamin D3 is vital to the metabolizing of calcium from sunlight (or UVB lights) for use in the body.
  • This disease can be prevented with regular monitoring for signs of the illness, and a varied, healthy and nutritious diet with correct supplementations of Calcium and Vitamin D3.
  • Efficient UVB lighting must be provided at all times, and regular natural sunlight is recommended.
  • Regular check ups are essential for any pet. Daily at-home checking will help to monitor any conditions that may cause issues. Finding a local vet with reptile experience is essential.

Shedding

  • It is normal for bearded dragons to shed their skin. Baby bearded dragons will shed several times in their first year as their bodies grow and develop, as they reach adulthood the frequency will slow down in accordance with their physical growth.
  • The shedding of skin (ecdysis) can be influenced by hormones as a way to regenerate skin, body growth (from juvenile – adult) and environmental factors, mainly if the humidity levels change.
  • For adult bearded dragons, shedding occurs as a way to replenish the skin and its nutrients. And can be instigated by behavioural and environmental changes such as UVB, diet, breeding, brumation, temperature, humidity and stress.
  • It is extremely important that all skin is removed in the shedding process, as loose skin has been known to constrict around toes resulting in infections and occasionally the loss of the digit.
  • Bearded Dragons may eat the skin and do not usually need assistance in removing the skin, removing the skin before it is ready can damage the new skin underneath.
  • As bearded dragons get ready to shed their colours will get duller as the skin loosens away from the body.
  • They may lose their appetite a few days prior to shedding and their eyes may appear to ‘bulge’ as they start to loosen the skin around the head and face.
  • They also shed in flakes as opposed to a full body shed such as a snake.
  • During shedding they may rub against objects or scratch at themselves with their legs to loosen the skin. During this time regular misting, or allowing a swim in a tepid bath will be beneficial to softening and loosening the skin. All baths must be fully supervised.
  • Check your bearded daily when shedding for any difficulties.
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